Some days just don’t go as planned with Longarm quilting and you have to stop, step back and analyze what the issue is and what to do about it.
The quilt I was working on was made of excellent quality quilting cotton, 1930’s reproduction fabric. The batting was top quality Quilters Dream Blend 70/30 (select, mid-weight) and the thread was top quality Superior Threads King Tut and So Fine 50, both designed for Longarm machine quilting. I used the Towa Bobbin Gauge to set the bobbin tension at my normal setting of 200 for the M-hook on the Nolting Pro. I was using IntelliQuilter computer guided system for this quilt and the machine and bobbin were correctly threaded.
The problem: Regardless of how carefully I adjusted the tension, the bobbin thread either pulled to the top or the top thread pulled to the bottom railroading, inconsistent tension. Some places looked wonderful, others not very good.
I can say that I have not had any tension adjustment problems in several years since starting to use the Towa Gauge to adjust the bobbin tension at the same setting regardless of the thread. So, why now? Was it just a bad day, careless top tension adjustment, the weather, the particular computer guided pattern, one which I had never stitched out before, or some other issue. I continued to adjust the tension on the “fly” as I stitched out two rows of the pattern. Not having much success I decided to quit for the day.
The next day after taking a really good look at the back of the quilt, I had to make the
dreaded decision to totally take out all of the quilting. The inconsistent tension was in too many places to even consider repairing the spots. More importantly, I had to figure out why it was happening and fix the issue before working on the quilt again. I talked with a friend who also had a Pro (now upgraded to the Nolting NV) and IQ to see if she had any suggestion.
I could rule out some things as they were not a factor:
- I ruled out any mechanical issue as this machine is only a few months old.
- I ruled out any problems with IQ as that also is only a few months old.
So, that left me with the quilt sandwich, thread, and adjustment.
Here is now I solved the problem:
- I could not change the quilt sandwich, however, part way through quilting I realized that I had loaded the backing incorrectly with the scrim side up rather than down as it should be. I feel that this was a factor to some extent because the “fluffier” side was down toward the backing rather than up touching the back of the top.
- The pattern was a medium density pattern with quilting less than 3” apart, sometimes 2” apart, many curves and points which probably caused a lot of needle flex as the machine moved back and forth around the pattern. I made sure I had a stronger, thicker needle in the machine and used the MR 4.5/19 for the M-hook in the machine. Even using a size 20 needle might have helped even more.
- Because of the denser pattern, the very inconsistent tension and trouble fine tuning the tension, I reasoned that the So Fine 50 (poly) thread in the bobbin was not a good match for the heavier #40 King Tut (cotton) on the top. I switched bobbin thread to Robison Anton 50 cotton. And, if that had not worked, I would have used the King Tut in the bobbin also so that the threads would be evenly matched as far as strength and elasticity.
- I slowed IQ down so that there would be less needle flex and have more time to precisely place the stitches. The settings I used were 1.3 Speed and 1.1 Detail. These slower speeds also meant that I needed to slow the machine speed down. If this speed had not worked, I would have slowed IQ and the machine down even more. If I had been hand guiding this pattern and experiencing the same issues, which quite possibly could happen, I would need to slow down my hand guiding speed. With a denser pattern, hand guiding the machine slower would probably happen anyway.
- I warmed up my machine for at least five minutes, perhaps even more. Over the years I have discovered that if the machine’s internal parts are well warmed up, along with the bobbin case, adjusting the tension takes less time and takes fewer adjustments after starting to quilt on the quilt. Remove the bobbin from the bobbin case and put the empty bobbin case into the machine for the warm up. Don’t forget to remove the thread from the top and out of the take up lever. Warm up using a medium speed.
- Use the Towa Bobbin Gauge to set the bobbin tension. I checked the bobbin tension on every bobbin and set to 200. Experience has taught me that this is the best setting for my Nolting Pro with the IQ. When I use the Pro with Quiltmagine (Nolting’s computer guided system), I set the bobbin at 175. Each computer guided system, because it so precisely moves and places stitches, places a different amount of stress on the thread. By experimenting with different settings, I have found these setting to work for me. Longarm machines run best with a looser bobbin tension as that gives much more flexibility in adjusting the top tension.
- Once the bobbin tension was set correctly, I spent time adjusting the top tension. My method for that is to tighten the top tension until I see the bobbin thread starting to poke out of the top on my test sample at the side of the quilt. Then, I start backing the top down until I can only see the tip of the bobbin thread down in the needle hole. I feel and look at the back to make sure there are no top thread pokies. I always test using the same setting (stitch length or motor speed) I will use on the quilt, stitch little circles, curves, straight lines and points to see how the machine tension responds as I am adjusting the top tension. When I am satisfied, and only when satisfied, I started the pattern.
- I decided to adjust the pattern size a little larger to give a little more gentleness to the curves of the pattern. This slight adjustment was still within the scale of the quilt top design. With a paper pattern and hand guided, you don’t have this flexibility, so you simply have to work with what you have.
- Once I started IQ stitching the pattern I stopped several times within the first several inches to check the tension top and bottom and made little refinements to the tension. I did not want to make any assumptions and I did not want to spend any more time ripping out machine quilting stitching. If I had been hand guiding this pattern, I would have done the same, stop a number of times as I started stitching the pattern to check the tension top and bottom. As the pattern continued to stitch out, I checked periodically across the row, and across every row.
- Because I had started quilting this in the early afternoon, I kept at it until it was finished. When success presents itself, I did not want to stop until completed.
You might be asking if every quilt is such a struggle. The answer to that is, no. My normal setup does involve sufficient machine warm up, using the Town Bobbin Gauge to set the bobbin tension, testing and adjusting the tension on a test strip at the side of the quilt, and stopping frequently when I start quilting to make fine top tension adjustments. Normally I do not have problems and am able to work through the project without any issues. Just why this quilt was a problem, other than the factors I mentioned before, it is hard to determine. Perhaps each of the variables contributed something to the problem. Situations like this are frustrating and for new Longarm quilters, almost overwhelming. Rather than fret and stress, it is best just to step back, look at the whole quilting picture, analyze the problem and the variables involved, and even check the simple things like thread path. Even with my experience, I am happy that I had a Longarm friend to bounce ideas off and that the problem inconsistent tension was solved.